Sewing

[temperance14]

This isn't going to be brilliant; I may not even keep it on LJ.

Forget it. I don't even have the energy, brains or inspiration to type.

I just wanted sewing to work. Maybe be fun. Realized that wasn't going to happen, but I wanted it to work.

Fabric folding last weekend (I think it was last weekend) went ok. I posted somewhere that this is where I get nervous, because I know I'm going to throw shit out of alignment. And I never cut exactly straight. And I don't care how much people tell you it doesn't have to be straight: they are just trying to make you relax. The truth is: cutting fabric has to be exact, otherwise you can't sew the seams straight. And for someone who gets nervous and can't keep the seams straight, it gets worse (also why I sew on VERY slow speed on the machine--I'm like a drunk driver following the bot dots).

Simple fucking top. VERY pretty fabric, that much pleases me. I picked out nice fabric. Laid it out as carefully as I could--but I positive there must have been a small fold on the 2nd layer underneath. One of the back sleeves did not line up notches with the front sleeve half, nor were the side lengths matching exactly. Back was about 1/4" to 1/2" longer. (Cheated--I matched at the bottom, and figured I'd trim or adjust at the neck line later.)

And then I sewed. More nervous. I pin baste, then usually sew in the longest stitch allowable, on the assumption I'll be ripping out. This time, I decided to pin base, then stitch base with a 1/2" edge--if all looked well, I'd do a proper, smaller, firmer stitch with a 5/8" edge. All went well, even with the sleeve fudging. 1/2" long stitch baste was fine--except the baste gathered and puckered a bit. Fudged some more by 'snapping' the stitch line and fabric straight--flattened it out. (If this makes no sense in description, my apologies--I don't know the right term.)

Everything looked good--and then I did the 5/8" seam--and it ate the the thread and the fabric.
I stopped and tried ripping out the tighter seam, but just ended up picking out the fabric thread.

*Sigh*. I know, I'm a clumsy ass. Will try again tomorrow. Maybe next weekend. I need out tomorrow morning, for just a bit. For future, will just use the long basting stitch as my 5/8" permanent seam. I'd rather risk the seam coming apart in the future than risk the fabric getting chewed up again.

Comments

[lyahdan.livejournal.com]

Oof. What kind of fabric? The fact that the baste was gathering and puckering makes me wonder if your machine's tension is off. Ever adjusted that?

And don't feel bad about picking at fabric thread. When things snarl, it's bloody hard not to. Particularly if you did a good job matching thread to fabric. (I ripped something like a half inch on a black piece once before I realized I was picking open the fabric instead of the stiches.)

Also, I'm horrible at cutting exact or straight...and pay for it in time adjusting and fixing later. But it still works. Or has so far.

[temperance14.livejournal.com]

Polyester (I know, ick, but it has a wonderful hand) silk weight. I'm going to adjust the tension today or this week, depending upon the time.

FORTUNATELY, I'm AR enough that I always buy extra fabric for 'oh shit!' purposes. I think I've got enough to cut more sleeve pieces. (It's a set in with front and back pieces cut separately.)

As far as chewing the prior stitch, I've had that problem before. I think:
1) finer fabric started just under the foot tends to get sucked into the dogs. I need to start stiching 1/4" to 1/2" away from the edge.

2) Sewing a 5/8" seam next to a 1/2" basting stitch--there's no way to keep the needle from catching on the previous threads, and pulling the stitch lines together (it swerved like a freshman on a bicycle).

Going to go over groceries, some cooking and laundry, some writitng, and see if I have time to recut today. Will definitely try to make sewing time after work this week.

(P.S. Yes, I did give myself a pat for matching the thread, even as I was cursing myself for doing so!)

[lyahdan.livejournal.com]

Starting a bit farther in was going to be the next suggestion. I've had that happen too on fine, stretchy, or fluffy fabrics (man I hate the fluffy ones that catch on the feet constantly).

Also, I admit to being lame and usually ignoring the 1/2" and then 5/8" because my machine never seems to have a problem with running two rows of stitches on top of each other. So, for those I'm double-stitching, they get a basting stitch at 5/8" and then the tighter stitching right on top of it. They seams press flat better that way. I suppose there's probably some reason why I shouldn't do that, but since my mom taught me that way and has been sewing since 1960-something, I figured I wasn't screwing anything up substantially.

My understanding is that the 1/2 and the 5/8 thing is partly to stall fraying. If I'm making something I don't expect to last for all that long (quick costumes or pieces thereof, light fabrics that simply aren't going to survive for 5 years of washing, etc.) I don't worry about it. The piece will be defunct before it frays enough to be a problem. For things I need to last (faire stuff! Coats) I zigzag stitch all the frayable edges (and make use of selvege edges where I can). A serger would work better, but I don't have one.

If it continues being cranky, drop the machine off for service. Mine gets it about once every 5 years, and the cost is worth it as far as keeping me from having to tear the machine apart and spend time I don't have in tinkering. The one over by R&R (if they're still there...sounds like Friday's conversation all of a sudden) has done perfectly serviceable work and offered useful advice. It's also an errand that allows for browsing R&R and the International Food Market--not a bad way to spend a bit of evening. (R&R is open late hours on Thursdays.)

[aleeceh.livejournal.com]

Starting a bit farther in ...

That's a very good tip. If you like, you can pair that with another one I've picked up along the way: backstitching. When you start off a line of stitching, run forward like normal for several stitches, but then stop and hold your quick-reverse switch for several stitches, so that you backtrack over some of those initial stitches. Stop and release the reverse switch, and continue forward as normal. The extra stitches provide some reinforcement, and can be repeated once or twice if you want, but don't count on being able to unpick multiple passes. When you are within a few stitches of the end of your line, stop and reverse for a few stitches the same way before continuing off the end. I also like to do this for reinforcement immediately before and after turning sharp corners, when crossing other seams, or anywhere that's likely to be a strain point.

If you need to start off farther in from the edge of a delicate fabric, as lyahdan suggested, then you can skip the initial forward stitches and just start off in reverse, so you end up only double-stitching instead of triple stitching that short stretch. Or you could start forward like normal but then when you reverse, stitch beyond your starting point and out toward the edge before returning to normal forward stitching. Your machine should be able to handle approaching that edge in reverse more easily than it could launch forward from it, and the reinforcement of the reverse stitches should help it get going forward from there without misbehaving. This has worked well for me in the past.

One thing to watch out for with backstitching--and this might be a show stopper if your machine continues to have so much trouble tracking straight--is that if you can't manage to stitch exactly over your previous stitches, you'll want to try to keep any stray stitches falling toward the seam allowance rather than the body of the piece. Having a little sideways jog into the allowance on a seam that needs to be pressed open can be a nuisance, but pressing open isn't always even called for, whereas erring to the other side may well result in a visible exterior flaw.

[aleeceh.livejournal.com]

Oh, almost forgot ... I have also used the shop lyahdan mentioned. I can't remember how long ago it was (which probably means it's time for another visit), but I too was quite satisfied with their service and expertise.

[temperance14.livejournal.com]

Still catching up on LJ...

I'm going to adjust tension for now...I've had this problem before, and have dropped it off at the repair shop. Usually get told the machine is fine, that they just cleaned everything--and get charged $60.00. And a recommendation for a new machine.

Oh, and my reason for two lines of stitching was to make sure the fabric stayed in placed. Pin baste, then long basting stitches. If all that looked fine, then smaller stronger stitches. I like your idea of stitching over the first line, but my machine seems to object to working over extra thread.

[aleeceh.livejournal.com]

But, as I understand it, that $60 cleaning service is like a tune-up and oil change for your car; it's just something that has to be done periodically, even when you're doing your at-home maintenance as prescribed. Lubricants deteriorate and collect debris with time and/or usage. The shop may not find a repairable problem, but the machine should still run much better after professional cleaning/lubrication/adjustment. It may be that the combination of a tune-up and adjusting your usage in the ways we've been discussing will give you satisfactory results. I certainly wouldn't resort to replacing the machine without doing both. If you've always had these same issues with it, and servicing hasn't made a difference in its performance, then maybe you already have your answer, but it still seems worth trying when compared to the hassle & cost of replacement.

If/when you take your machine in, it may be helpful to bring along samples of the problems you're having with it. When they return it to you, they generally leave a swatch in it to show it's working well, so you can have a look at that and ask if they had to do anything special to get that result. If you can arrange to have the time when you go to pick it up, you could probably bring some fabric along and set up the machine and test it before you leave. If it doesn't seem to have improved, then you can show them and ask if there's anything you or they can adjust to address the problem.

When you get the oil changed in vehicle you drive regularly, sometimes the difference in how it runs before and after is like night and day. It occurs to me that I'm not sure I've ever sewed actively enough to have been working on a project both immediately before and after having a machine serviced. I usually get it done either before or after a project, and then don't touch it again until I'm desperate to mend something. Maybe someone who sews more regularly can say whether you should get that same "wow" as with your car with a sewing machine service or not!

[temperance14.livejournal.com]

I really didn't mind the $60 fee--it was having someone tell me they couldn't find a problem, then coming home and having the thread eating problem again.

I'll probably have more problems solve from this post than I did from cleaning.
But I will take it in again for a cleaning, and buy a new bottle of oil.

[aleeceh.livejournal.com]

I would say you definitely have a thread tension issue. Remember it's not a set-it-and-forget-it thing. Stitch length is one of the variables that factors into what tension settings will be correct for a given line of stitching. If you are making your basting seams with longer stitches (typically 6 per inch) and your final seams with shorter stitches (typically 10 or 12 per inch), but not adjusting and testing the tension along with the stitch length, that would easily cause the different behavior you are seeing between the two, especially when combined with the different distances from the cut edge. Test, test, test.

Stitching too close to the cut edge will definitely cause the fabric to get pulled down into the machine and muck up the works, especially on fabrics with nice "hand" or tendency to unravel or curl at cut edges. If you can at all avoid it, never try to sew closer than 1/2" to the edge, 3/8" if you're feeling lucky. If you have a zig-zag machine, chances are you can adjust the needle to sew left or right of normal center. You can use this feature to stitch closer to the fabric edge while maintaining more fabric engaged in the machine, if that makes sense. Also if you have a zig-zag machine, your normal throat plate should have a wide slot to receive the needle. If so, see if you have an alternate throat plate with a small round hole under the needle instead. So long as all you need to do is centered straight stitching, the smaller hole will allow the plate to support your fabric better. Just don't forget to switch it back before zig-zagging or off-centering! You may also have a specialized straight-stitch presser-foot along those same lines that could be helpful.

Finally, have you checked your needle? Is it the right size and type for your fabric? Generally you want a ball point only for knits, and a finer size for finer fabrics. Finer is better, I think, so long as your thread passes through freely and your work doesn't cause it to flex so much that it misses its receiving hole in the throat plate. (Broken needles suck!) If the size and type are appropriate, it could still be damaged or dull from age/use, so try a new one.

If you deal with all of these issues, and get the machine serviced, and still can't get two parallel lines of stitching 1/8" apart, then you're left with getting checked for Parkinson's or getting a better machine! Remember, "better" can vary with what you're doing, and doesn't necessarily mean more expensive. I have a very basic 60s vintage Singer and a more advanced 70s vintage Elna. Both were my mom's, and she kept them set up in a dual-machine table. The Elna was costly and has more finesse and features, but it can be finicky; the Singer handles heavy fabrics better. Not having room for my mom's dual setup, I use the Elna because it has more features, but the Singer comes out for marathon costuming sessions, and is a great workhorse. Between her original Singer and her Elna, my mom bought another Singer "Golden Touch" with more features, which I'm sure was expensive at the time. She handed it down to me when she got the Elna, and I gave it to my sister when I inherited my mom's pair. My skill is nowhere near what my mom's was, but I swear that damned thing could *not* sew a straight seam. I could never get a finished product I was satisfied with using it. No doubt that's why she replaced it with the Elna; sewing is too much work and materials are too expensive to end up with a result you don't feel proud to wear.

I sew infrequently, so most of the time it would be no trouble to let you use any of my equipment. We also have a third older Singer that's very solid and rarely used. I'd have to check with El, but I bet if it suits your needs you could borrow it as long as you needed it, or even permanently adopt it. Any time you're having trouble, I'd be happy to try to help.

[temperance14.livejournal.com]

Didn't mean to ignore comments. It's been a long week.
A LOT of good points here--I forgot that you sew.

1. Yep, L brought that up. I didn't think about checking tension when changing the stitch length.

2. Damn! Never thought about changing out that plate--and it's not like I haven't run into this problem before! (Not sure how to stitch off center--this little machine does have zig-zag, but not sure how to make do that trick. Will pull out the manual.) Must also check to see what 'feet' I have in the little sewing machine drawer.

3. Changed out the needle when I set up for this project--and yep, light fine fabrics. One point for me!

4. New machine may be a point. I want to see how much I can do with the current puppy. It's light and portable--and I want to make sure I correct any "me" problems first. Then I will indulge in new machine lust!

Thanks muchness for all the check points.

[aleeceh.livejournal.com]

Yes, well, my machine does hide under a dust cover--and for good reason!

Your machine may or may not do the off center trick, but I think all of my zig-zags have. I don't know if it would really help you or not. When I read over your post and the comments again, I realized that your "too close to the edge" issue was really related to starting off your stitch lines, and not so much a matter of too-narrow seam allowances, so lyahdan's "starting off farther in" tip was more relevant. I wouldn't expect you'd need to do anything special to do your basting lines with a half-inch allowance, and then your 5/8" normal seam. With exceptionally wispy fabrics the off-center technique or a temporary backing material (paper or interfacing) might be needed.

It still may be worth trying a fresh needle. It's always possible you got a dud or that it got damaged early in your project.

It would be interesting to try swapping machines with someone who sews actively and has lots of experience, preferably while you each work on similar projects, and see whether the problems follow the machine or the seamstress. If your machine makes a very skilled seamstress swear a blue streak, while you're able to get good results easily with hers, then you can feel justified in tossing your machine off the nearest tall building. If she does fine with yours while your troubles persist using hers, then you can compare notes and figure out what the two of you are doing differently. I'd volunteer for this project, but I need more distractions like I need (more) holes in my head!

[aleeceh.livejournal.com]

There's nothing wrong with pinning and cutting and sewing slowly and carefully. You won't be happy with the results if you rush or cut corners. The importance of attention to straight grain does vary with fabrics and projects, but more often than not, you are right, this detail does make a difference, in ease of assembly if not final appearance. Someone taught me to take the time and trouble to transfer *all* the lines and markings from the pattern to the "wrong" sides of *both/all* layers with tracing paper & wheel as part of the cutting process. It's a tedious and time-consuming addition to the less-fun phase of the project, but during later assembly I've been very glad I did it on several occasions. If nothing else, trace all curved seam lines and all seam line corners, even if there are no printed dots or notches.

For cutting, you might try using a rotary wheel and mat if you have been using scissors. If the pieces are large, it can be challenging to position the mat under the fabric, but once it's laid out you aren't lifting and moving the fabric while you're cutting like you are with scissors. Either way, make sure your blades are sharp fit snugly.

Also, you won't get your fabric to lie nice and flat if your workspace is too small. I have a big sheet of cardboard with a 36"x69" grid printed on it that folds up for storage. You can find them at fabric stores and they're not too expensive, in the neighborhood of $10. When I'm cutting a project I lay this board out either on the floor (hard on the back) or on another table (tricky b/c all my tables are narrower than that). The cardboard is smooth but still has enough natural texture to help keep the fabric in place a bit, and the grids can be extremely useful.

Sometimes when piece lengths are mismatched, especially on curved/biased seams, it's because you are supposed to "ease" the pieces, i.e. force the notches to line up by very slightly stretching and/or gathering the fabric as you make the seam. The instructions should say that when needed, but unless you are very sure you've made a cutting/marking error, obey the notches & marks. And remember when aligning *anything*, what will be happening at your stitch line is what matters; the initial cut edge will be trimmed away or concealed. This is where that extra effort to transfer seam lines can be valuable. If you need to fudge something, generally a hemline would be way easier to adjust during/after sewing than a neckline, but I'd have to see the specific pieces.

Machine malfunctions, and the resulting thread picking (if you're lucky) and fabric damage (if you're unlucky) are really frustrating, especially with well-matched thread or certain types of fabrics. It happens to me too, and probably to everyone who sews. Your best preventative measure is to make sure your machine is in good shape and that both your top and bottom tension are set correctly. You may need to adjust tension even while using the same fabric and thread depending on how many layers you're working with or other factors. Double-check your thread paths. If you're not already doing so, before you put your real pieces under the needle, test your tension on scraps of your project fabric configured similarly (layers, right/wrong, bias, etc.) to the step you are about to do. Adjust and repeat as many times as you have to, and don't move on to the real thing until you have a good sample. If your machine hasn't been serviced recently (by time or mileage), get it done. Make sure you're keeping it oiled as specified by its manual, which is probably more often than you think. Run some scraps through it after oiling to make sure no excess gets on your project.

[temperance14.livejournal.com]

And...

I have forgiven myself for going slower. A lot of the costume folk can go quickly because of their sewing experience, and knowledge of the patterns. I feel more comfortable being pokey (but it is frustrating when my sewing time feels limited).

And yes, I traced everything, marking and notches. By the way, I also learned a trick from the costumers of Pryanksters--they copy all patterns onto clear plastic painters tarp. The patterns last longer than tissue, and the tissue can be saved for future copies and resizing.

I also checked for pattern ease as well--but I still think it was a cutting error. I don't think there should have been that much difference from the sleeve front to the sleeve back--I did not find the same difference on both sets of sleeves. But, I will check again, and make sure to match centerline markings on the sleeve hems.

And yes, will double check that tension, as noted before. Thanks.

[whalejudge.livejournal.com]

Hugs!

[kelsied.livejournal.com]

Based on the comments of those here who know much more than I do about sewing, I do not think that "clumsy ass" is the relevant term here.

*hugs* It sounds frustrating. I'm sorry it didn't work out at first...

[ifonlyuntil9.livejournal.com]

Oooh check your needle size, I know this sounds stupid, but I've noticed that my machine tends to act up and eat fabric when my needle size doesn't match the fabric I'm using! Most of the time I don't have to worry about it because most of the fabrics I am sewing with are of the same weight, but usually when I switch out to lighter fabrics I have to change out my needle and change my tension or I get a thready,hole-y mess.

[barelyproper.livejournal.com]

I was also going to say check needle... it may be dull as well.

[temperance14.livejournal.com]

Good point from the both of you---but did that at the start. (Go me!)

Fresh needle with each project. And I buy a few of the mixed packs. when restocking notions.